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MELBOURNE’S BROADWAY  by Bert Bertram




            hen  the  "Melbourne  Peelers"  went
       Wscrabbling  up  alleys  in  their  diligent
       search  for  that  suave  and  elegant  gentleman
       crook, Squizzy Taylor, in the early twenties, he
       was right under their noses, hiding in the cellars
       of the Bijou Theatre, in his favourite part of
       town  -  Bourke  Street,  where  the  prestigious
       Commonwealth Bank resides today.
       For  where  else  in  Melbourne  town  would
       Squizzy gravitate to except Bourke Street, for
       it has been the magnetic thread of our city, even
       before the turn of the century to the present day,
       when  it  plays  host  for  St.  Patrick's  Day
       marches,  Anzac  Day  celebrations,  Football
       Grand Final appearances of the top competitors
       and the thrill of seeing all the Melbourne Cup
       Hoops prancing along in their racing silks, the
       day before they mount "The Bangtails" for the
       world's most famous horse-race which sets the
       old pulses into top gear.
       All this and more takes place in bawdy, bustling
       Bourke Street, Melbourne's original venue of               The Bijou Theatre at 217 Bourke Street
       ribaldry, raunchiness and razzamatazz!
                                           popular "rubberdies", I sat up on the front seat  Friday night by the Eastern Market's gaslights.
       How did a kid of seven years get an interest in  and the baby blues took in the passing parade  There were the "Bouveroos" from Carlton, the
       Bourke Street in 1927? Easy - live in a not so  and  there  was  oodles  to  see  -  jinkers,  drays,  "Coffin Mob" from North, "Chooky Fowler's
       salubrious  cottage  opposite  Mr  Say's  big  M.C.C. water carts spraying the roads to keep  Crown Mob" from Richmond and a jaunty crew
       butcher shop and factory in Richmond and be  the dust down, 'Sparrow Starvers', young men  of  jovial  juveniles  from  Johnston  Street,
       the candy kid with the drivers of the horse and  with  hand  carts  and  long-handled  shovels,  Collingwood - the “Don Mob" who had all the
       carts which delivered the meat back in the good  picking  up  horse  manure  which  old  Dobbin  warmth  and  affability  of  a  school  of
       old Roaring Twenties'!              would splatter over the road (and they worked  hammerhead sharks on a feeding frenzy.
                                           every  day  of  the  week);  bakers'  carts  gaily
       A cobber of brother Bill, Percy Brindley, would  painted,  with  the  driver  whipping  the  frisky  Early  on  in  the  1900s  was  another  group  of
       lift me up into the cart and away we'd trot from  horse and the little step on the back to stand on  warm hearted Buckeroos, "The Bourke Street
       the  corner  of  Hoddle  and  Elizabeth  Streets,  and  which  small  boys  whipped  behind  and  Rats"  from  which  Mrs.  Taylor's  lovely  son
       Richmond,  all  the  way  into  the  Royal  Mail  sometimes stole a load of bread. Cable trams  “Squizzy'\” gravitated and this delightful group
       Hotel  and  The  Bull  and  Mouth  Hotel  in  passed in quick succession - the Gripman up  of early century vitriolic vultures were always
       virtually the centre of Bourke Street which, to  front, giving the bell a workout to clear any  on  the  lookout  for  any  honest  burgher,  who
       me in 1927, was the hub of the universe. While  slow horse and cart off the track or perhaps they  would inadvertently stray into their orbit, where
       Percy would shoulder up flat wooden boxes of  were trying to do a line with some little tabby  they held court! A golden guinea may avoid a
       sausages and chops to the kitchens of these two  with a short skirt. Even I noticed the girls in  biff over the cruet from a stocking full of ball
                                           short skirts (actually I was almost 8!)  bearings, which could produce a broken jaw or
                                                                               a  long  spell  in  hospital,  for  the  innocent
         Below:  Melbourne’s infamous “Squizzy” Taylor
                                           When we moved further down Bourke St to the  wayfarer.
                                           Bull and Mouth Hotel, I'd really arrived in the
                                           big city, for the Bull and Mouth in those years  In the late 1930s, there was another group of
                                           of  hustle  was  not  only  a  popular  hotel  and  bright and breezy hoodlums centred on "The
                                           eating establishment for hundreds of passing  Tivoli  Billiard  Room"  and,  as  the  name
                                           Melburnians, but it was a jaunty trysting spot  suggests, it was adjacent to the Tivoli Theatre.
                                           for the Fancy Men of the city's "knock shops"  If an innocent abroad had any ideas of waltzing
                                           to  meet  their  er  Ladies  for  a  few  convivial  in for a game of snooker or billiards, he'd find
                                           drinks  and  possibly  discuss  "the  state  of  the  that  he'd  be  better  off  swimming  through  a
                                           nation".. (well!!)                  creek full of piranhas in Mexico City. In 1936,
                                                                               while  delivering  meat  in  that  area,  I  had
                                           Oh sure, Bourke Street had Treadways, Love  occasion to pass a flippant remark to one of
                                           and  Pollards,  Myers,  Paynes  Bon  Marche,  these  'sweethearts'.  "Get  smart  with  me  Jack
                                           Buckley and Nunn, Corsetiers (and we know  and I'll bite your ear off!", he said. Sixty years
                                           what  they  sold),  Coles  Book  Arcade,  Hair  later, I still have an old fashioned idea he was
                                           Salons,  Dance  Studios,  Tea  Rooms,  Cake  fair dinkum.
                                           Shops  and,  for  the  gullible,  it  had  Fortune
                                           Tellers - some whose parents had practiced in  The  big  department  stores  had  their  worries.
                                           the Eastern Market - a very murky part of the  Shops  like  the  Leviathan,  London  Stores,
                                           top of Bourke Street in the late 1800s and early  Myers, Norman's Corner Store and Mantons all
                                           part of 1900!                       had  small  battalions  of  store  detectives
                                                                               guarding their merchandise and they still fought
                                           And it had its vicious mobs who, even in the  a losing battle against the Bourke Street hustlers.
                                           late 1920s, would happen to get together of a

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